The first step in assembling our Bakery is to determine how "old" we want the building
Assuming you want to represent a relatively new building, the paint can be applied to the wood material as
is. On the other hand, if you wish to represent the ravages of time, e.g. a really decrepit looking building,
then we need to take a slightly different approach.
To achieve this look, we will be approaching this in a two step process:
Texturing the wood, followed by
If you are like me, you will be repeating these steps in various combinations throughout the build up process.
The first step is to add the wood texturing.
The tools you will require are:
Stiff wire brushes
Course and fine sand paper
Fine steel wool.
Grain texture is created on the board surfaces by rubbing a wire brush back and forth in line
with the grain and board impressions. Do this carefully as the wood is delicate and can break
if too much pressure or enthusiasm is applied. Also, you wan to make sure it is not over done.
Depending on the type of wood, some wood fuss may be created in which case a quick rub with some fine
steel wool will remove the unwanted material.
Next we will add some joins between the boards. In real life the wood boards are limited to a max length of 20 to
24 feet. Thus you would expect to see a few board ends on a wall longer than that.
Using a sharp hobby knife, score the clap board / sliding at logical points where there may be a join
in the boards. This is tpically over a wall stud. Ensure the score mark is a right angles to the length of the
Another thing we can do to add interest to the wall is "pull" up the odd board to make look like the
boards are coming loose.
Simulate this by running your sharp knife under the board and gently lifting it up.
The ideas outlined above are present on this wall; wood texture, board ends and lifting boards.
Can you spot them all?
One thing at also adds "life" and age to the wall is the presence of nail holes. These often appear on
older, neglected buildings where the paint has faded and the sun has dried the wood.
Nail Holes can be simulated very easily by using a sharp pin or hard lead pencil to mark the “nail heads”
Space your rows at 16 or 24 inch centres to mimic the wall stud spacing. Don't forget to use a
a square and scale ruler to ensure the rows are straight and at right angles.
Use a ruler to measure out the spacing of the nail holes.
Use a square and straight edge to ensure the nail holes are in a line.
Board & Batten Walls
Board and Batten is made by nailing wide boards vertically over horizontal cross members.
Thinner Battens are then nailed over the gap between the larger boards to make them weather tight.
As noted above, you can simulate joins in the boards by scoring across the board with a sharp knife.
Nail holes can be added with a pin or sharp pencil.
Don’t forget to break a few battens and even boards in the process.
If you break a batten, don't forget to add the seam between the wider boards underneath.
Note the board ends and broken battens in this illustration.
Here is the left wall with a few broken battens and nail holes. I also added another window with the
extra window pieces in the HO kit.
This Web page is maintained by
Grant Knowles and was last
updated on Oct 31, 2008.